Le Marais: "Gay Paris" and the Construction of an LGBTQIA+ mecca
Where are the hottest gay clubs in Paris these days? The Marais.
by Brian Alcamo
If you’ve ever been to Paris, you’ve most likely heard of and been to the Marais. Originally a swamp (the English translation of the word marais) and a home to poorer inhabitants, the neighborhood was quickly gentrified into one of Paris’s most sought after commercial zones. It is also Paris’s most well-known gay neighborhood.
For those not in the know, the Marais is located in Paris’s 3rd and 4th arrondissements, on the Right Bank, or Rive Droite, of the Seine. The main gay areas of the neighborhood are concentrated along and around Rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie. Rue du Temple and the Rue Vieille-du-Temple are considered the quarter’s other main arteries. While the area today is easily identifiable with old architecture, expensive boutiques, and rainbow flags, the Marais wasn’t always the prime Parisian locale for LGBTQIA+ culture. It also wasn’t always a hot tourist destination.
Originally, from the mid 13th to 17th Century, le Marais was the place to be in Paris for French nobles. They built their urban mansions, or hotels particuliers (literally “private hotels”) around the modern-day Place des Vosges, then called the Place Royal. Eventually, the Marais’s popularity declined before turning to complete disarray during the French Revolution. For a long time, the Marais wasn’t filled with much in the way of fabulous queer nightlife. It was a place of poverty, and notably served as Paris’s Jewish neighborhood for decades (specifically in the part of the neighborhood known as the Pletzl).
The Place des Vosges
But just because the Marais wasn’t the place to be gay in Paris, doesn’t mean a gay neighborhood didn’t exist. During the twentieth century until the end of the 1970s, Paris’s queer center of gravity moved a few times. Paris first became a gay capital in the 1920s with its first “golden age” of gay life. Its status as a gay haven was (and is) rivaled only by Berlin on the European continent. Many notable queer artists and writers (such as Colette, Satie, and Gertrude Stein) championed the city as a gay paradise, particularly for gay women. This first gay neighborhoods were centered on La Butte Montmartre and Pigalle. During German Nazi rule in the 1930s, Berlin ceased to be queer friendly, and thus Paris was the number one destination for LGBT Europeans. After the war, Paris’s in-vogue gay neighborhood shifted for the first time to Saint-Germain-des-Prés (on the Left Bank of the Seine).
Towards the end of the 1950s, the neighborhood then migrated back to the Right Bank, this time near the Place de l’Opera and Rue Sainte-Anne. This location was considered by some to be Paris’s first gay neighborhood, since its existence was the first to be “known to Parisians.” Beforehand, the neighborhoods were more clandestine, even if they can be traced back to by historians and academics today.
After spending two decades near l’Opéra, Paris’s first gay bar, Le Village, opened on Rue du Platre in 1977 just south of the Marais. One theory as to why the neighborhood moved was because people were fed up with the increased commercialization and door-checks happening. Regardless of the reason, gay businesses and life began to flourish just a few blocks northeast in Marais proper afterwards.
It’s important to note that it was gay businesses (notably thanks to entrepreneur David Girard) that created the Marais-As-Queer-Capital, and not the migration of queer people’s living quarters. Not that many gay people live in the Marais. In fact, the Marais isn’t even necessarily thought of as a residential gay neighborhood, rather a gay center. Its shops and bars cater to a gay clientelle, but the residential real estate wasn’t and isn’t overwhelmingly populated by gay people. Unlike New York’s Hell’s Kitchen (previously Chelsea, and the West Village before that), the Marais was always a place LGBT people, notably gay men, spent their free time. They’ve used the area as a transient space, as their own playground before going back to their apartments all over the city.
Helpful Vocabulary When Talking About Gay Life in Paris
Un marais - A swamp
Un hôtel particulier - A French mansion or
literally “a private hotel”
L’âge d’or - The Golden age
Un bar - A bar
Aller boire un verre - To go get a drink
Prendre un verre - To have a drink
Aller en boîte - To go to the club
Faire la fête (teuf*) - To party
Research has shown that the number of same-sex households holding PACS (pacte civil de solidarité, or civil unions) is evenly distributed throughout the city, indicating that gay people live everywhere throughout Paris, not exclusively in the Marais. Perhaps this residential decentralization is why Paris’s gay community is considered to be less overt and less organized compared to New York’s or Berlin’s.
Despite the Parisian gay scene potentially being thought of as less “out there” compared to other queer capitals, its existence is still crucial to LGBTQIA+ identity and community in France and around the world. Regardless of where the “gayborhood du jour” is, these queer spaces help create a collective queer identity where people can be who they were born to be.
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Thinking of visiting Paris anytime soon? Be sure to check out the Marais. Please leave this article a “like,” and share it with a friend (or two)!
Thumbnail photo by Sophie Louisnard.
Barreling Across The Atlantic
And you thought Niagara Falls was the it-place for aquatic barrel rides.
Some people enjoy the slower pace of boat travel compared to air travel. However, one French man in particular has decided to take a very primitive approach to cross the Atlantic.
Photo: Facebook - Jean-Jacques Savin
Jean-Jacques Savin set sail from the Canary Islands this past December in what appears to be something straight out of a cartoon - a barrel made of resin-coated plywood. The measurements worked out to 10 feet long and 6.8 feet across.
The 71 year old spent the first 4 months of 2019 inside his barrel, traveling at about 2 mph as he relied entirely on the ocean current to guide his journey with a bit of assistance from JCOMMOPS, an international marine observatory, which provided him with markers to drop off at various parts of the sea to help study ocean currents.
His epic voyage lasted 128 days, and he posted updates via social media to keep interested viewers in the loop about his adventures. He also was sure to bring treats for the various holidays he would miss celebrating on land including a bottle of Sauternes white wine and a block of foie gras for New Year's Eve.
As far as his return track to France? As one may think, he has opted for a simple plane ride to his homeland.
We hope you’ve enjoyed learning how one Frenchman had the adventure of a lifetime Barreling Across The Atlantic! Would you be willing to take on a journey like the one Savin completed? Join the conversation below!
5 French Vacation Spots for Spring
Five amazing locations to visit while the flowers bloom.
Planning a trip to France this spring, but don't know where to begin? It can be challenging to narrow down which cities to roam when the country is rich with history and authenticity. We have chosen five of our favorite French vacation spots for spring that are sure to satisfy all of your French cravings. Whether you are in the mood for a romantic getaway in the Parisian cafes and the secluded Annecy, or if you would rather enjoy relaxing and exotic beach excursions in Cassis, or if you are eager to sightsee some of the world's most historic ruins and cathedrals in Lyon and Loire Valley, then we have your ideal France vacation nearly planned for you!
LYON
The third largest city in France, Lyon is located in the east-central region of the country and is the perfect location for a sense of French culture. Whether you are in the mood to meander through museums or sightsee some of the oldest Roman ruins, or even if you would rather take a stroll through the town and have a drink among the city's Old World charm, this is the place for you. Some must-see sights are the Gallo-Roman Museum of Archeology, the Parc de la Tête d'Or, which is the largest park in France, or the Presqu'ile District, which is home to the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) and the Place des Terreaux.
PARIS
It would be a shame to visit France and not set foot in the most romantic and sought-after destination in the world. Paris is dense in history, rich in culture, and is likely a vacation in itself. There is plenty to do and there is so little time. Without a doubt, Paris is a complete must-see if you are in the area (a.k.a. if you are in Europe). To narrow down your sightseeing for just a taste Paris, get the Eiffel Tower and Arc De Triomphe out of the way, because those sights go without saying. From there, you have The Lourve, which could easily take up a week of your time if you truly took advantage of all the magnificent artifacts it has to offer; and the Notre Dame de Paris Gothic church is a must. For more must-see Parisian getaways, visit here!
ANNECY
Now, many visitors neglect the countrysides of France and fail to get a glimpse of the authenticity of small towns such as Annecy, situated in a valley beside Lake Annecy in the south-east of France. This is the absolute destination for a quiet and peacefully getaway surrounded by locals. Visitors enjoy the beauty of the mountains in contrast to the crystal clear, blue lake, and relax in romantic cafes, sipping wine and people watching. A must-see in this town is the Château d'Annecy (Annecy Castle) along the Thiou River. Another is Le Palais de l'Isle, which is hard to miss as it is planted in the water and in a central part of the city.
LOIRE VALLEY
Regarded as a popular tourist attraction for its incredible scenery, historic towns, architecture and chateaux, Loire Valley is a picturesque region to visit in spring. Located in the center of the country, Loire Valley is considered the "Garden of France" for its abundance of vineyard, fruit orchards and fields of artichoke and asparagus that line the banks of the river. A must-see sight in this region is the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, a chateau considered to be the foremost example of french renaissance architecture.
CASSIS
Situated on the Mediterranean coast, Cassis offers visitors a glimpse of life in a quaint Provencal fishing village in the heart of Calanques National Park. Whether you would rather enjoy the city by boat or by strolling along the turquoise coastline from a pebbled beach, Cassis is a must see this spring. The towering cliffs in contrast with the coastline offer breathtaking views to all who visit. For those who enjoy hiking, it is advised to visit the Cap Canaille cliff that lines the water. It is quite a hike but incredible for those who are up for the challenge. It is also a must to visit the calanques, limestone cliffs that plunge into the Mediterranean. Viewing these natural wonders by boat is the most convenient and accessible way to see them up close.
I hope you enjoyed these 5 French Vacation Spots for Spring. If you are looking to learn more French language and culture, make sure to sign up for our new Online Classes at JP Linguistics! Don't forget to tell your friends about Frenchie Fridays so they can receive fun French stories delivered directly to their inboxes - they can sign up HERE. Merci et à bientôt!
For more destinations for your France spring vacation, visit here!
Photo credit by Carlos de Paz - Flickr, www.pexels.com, Mike Brice - Pixabay, Wikipedia Commons, and Dennis Jarvis - Flickr.
Traveling To France In The Fall
Experience a beautiful country during a beautiful season.
Daydreaming about France again? Us too. With traveling on the mind, we thought to share some interesting tips about what the fall season feels like in France. If you've never been, you should know that large groups of people start gathering for traditional celebrations which only this time of year can bring. Among these celebrations, some favorites are the delicious 'Cider and Chestnut Celebration' in Sauveterre-de-Rouergue, the 'Fête des Sorcières' (the Sorcerers Festival) in Chalindrey, and the 'Fête du Piment' (the Pepper Festival) in Espelette. If you are like us, you just went off and started daydreaming again. Before you go, let us reel you back in with some very fun insights about each of these traditions with 'Traveling to France in the Fall.' Enjoy!
'Fête du Piment' (the Pepper Festival) in Espelette
In late October, over 200,000 people flood the south-western town of Espelette for this spicy daylong event. Honoring the red peppers from this regions, which originated in Mexico AND now belong as the staple in Basque cuisine, farmers sample and sell product during the festival. In addition, visitors can enjoy music, dance, awards ceremonies, eating and drinking.
Image credit: theladybites.co.uk
Image credit: eatingtheworld.blogspot.com
Image credit: curreyer.com
Fête des Sorcières (the Sorcerers Festival) in Chalindrey
The Fête des Sorcières has been held for nearly a century in the north-eastern cities of France, Chalindrey & Rouffach. This celebration is home to a 16th-century witch hunt and the infamous 'Devil's Point' in Fort du Cognelot. The festival focuses on remaining true to its Celtic roots rather than buying into the commercial side of Halloween. However, many guests show up dressed as witches & gobblins, so first-time visitors should beware that this event will likely give them a scare! For fun, there are exhibitions and screenings of scary films and, on the Saturday night of the festival, there is a large dance party. For the young festival-goers, there are face-painters and an election of a Miss Sorcière.
Image credit: observatoire.yagg.com
Image credit: guide.voyages-sncf.com
Image credit: jds.fr
The Cider and Chestnut Celebration in Sauveterre-de-Rouergue
Vivid apple orchards and ancient chestnut trees are what grace the landscape of Sauveterre-de-Rouerge, a city that overlooks the Midi-Pyrénées region in the south of France. In October of each year, fresh apple cider is made and the city center brightens up with lively concerts and food vendors to celebrate the gorgeous atmosphere this town becomes in fall. Located in Ancizan, still in the Midi-Pyrénées, is the Museum of the Cider which allows guests to visit and observe how cider is made and to sample various types of cider. If you enjoy the outdoors and delicious cider, then this month long celebration is for you!
Image credit: www.guide2midipyrenees.com
Image credit: www.guide2midipyrenees.com
While there are many fun and exciting things to experience year-round in France, there is nothing quite like Traveling To France In The Fall! During this time, people come from all over the world to experience the various regions of France and, if you haven't experienced it yet yourself, it's something you should add to your wish list immediately! We hope you enjoyed reading about these unique fall traditions. Don't forget to add your comments and questions in the section below. For more French language and culture, check out our Group Classes & Private Lessons at www.jplinguistics.com. À bientôt!